Go Right Now: LJ's BBQ

In a state where dining out is somehow both a treat and a way of life, you wouldn't expect a restaurant who's slogan is, "Eat it and Beat it" to be successful. But LJ's BBQ, right over the Providence border in Pawtucket, is out to prove that if the food is good enough, you can say anything you want to your customers. And while a northern boy like myself may not be a fully-qualified judge of barbeque goodness, I've chowed down on enough of it over the years to say that the folks at LJ's are entitled to tell me to get my butt out of their booth when I'm done.

And, as you might guess, the LJ's crew is not as surly as their slogan might represent. (In fact, they're so friendly you might, just might, suspect that the slogan is just something that's meant to evoke a certain good-natured southern surliness.) Every time I've been, the service has been attentive but not over-the top, and the staff has a really good understanding of the menu and how to guide you to a choice you'll enjoy. And the menu, full of succulent, falling-off-the-bone barbeque favorites, gives plenty of options, at least assuming you like beef, pork or chicken.

Generally, I'm a fan of anything they offer that includes the word 'brisket'. But last time, I went out of my comfort zone and had a Pulled Pork Cuban, which was tangy, smokey and positively gut-busting. It probably didn't help that my wife insisted we get the onion rings to go with our meals (hers was much less stomach-stuffing than mine), which were big and tasty but ensured I would have no space for dessert. A nice beer list, usually with one on special, serves as the perfect accompaniment to wash down all that greasy goodness, but if you're so inclined, they manage to carry some nice wines. I love Malbec with anything, but think it goes really well with barbeque.

There are relatively few good southern food joints in the area, what with the dominance of bistro-style places serving Asian-inspired French dishes or formal Italian. (Not that I'm complaining, exactly...) So when a place like LJ's BBQ comes along, you have to embrace it, and accept that you'll probably need to run a few miles the next day as your mild penance.

The Essentials

ADDRESS: 727 East Avenue in Pawtucket, right past the end of Blackstone Boulevard
COST FOR TWO: Two cheap beers, an appetizer and two sandwiches will probably set you back $40 or so with the tip.
BAR SAVERS: Look for beer specials (the Sam Smith Nut Brown was a treat). Or, save on your whole meal by going Monday or Tuesday and getting the fixed price menu (drink, soup or salad, entree with side, and dessert) for $15.
EAT ME: Any brisket or pulled pork dish won't disappoint.
NEXT STOP: Go around the corner to Three Sisters at 1074 Hope Street for coffee or ice cream, if you have any room left.