Three Ways to Get Your Sushi Fix

Let me preface this article by noting how little I know about sushi. I was definitely a latecomer to the raw fish trend, having tried it for the first time less than three years ago. But since then, I've fairly regularly found myself trekking out for it with my wife, or bringing some back home to pair up with wine and a movie. While there are a number of respected sushi joints in Providence, I've found three that each meet a different need in my life, and these are the ones I'd recommend if you find yourself in a similar state.

A caveat: I usually eat maki (rolls), with a bit of the less adventurous nigiri or sashimi (a slice of fish, which in the case of nigiri comes on a ball of rice). So sushi purists who want to know the best place for the more exotic stuff should probably ignore everything I say.

The Atmospheric Choice: Sakura

There will always be a special place in my heart for Sakura because it counts as a romantic dinner out to my wife, yet costs a lot less than most other restaurants that get that designation, in large part because it is BYOB. You also can't escape the fact you're in a sushi restaurant, especially if you sit in the back room where you take your shoes off and sit at low tables. (If you've been sweating in your sneakers all day, there are regular tables in the front room.) The waitstaff is also dressed in traditional garb, adding to the feel that you've left Providence behind (at least, if you're not seated next to a bunch of college students passing a bunch of booze around, Sakura's only downfall.)

The assortment of sushi is pretty standard, and there are some combo plates for big groups. They also have tempura and a bunch of 'regular' food like beef, chicken and fried shrimp, but that seems mostly for sushi sissies. So, if you'd like to lose yourself for a few hours, grab a good bottle of wine and head to 231 Wickenden Street.

The Relaxed Choice: Ran Zan


View Larger MapI learned just now, from its web site, that Ran Zan is the name of a rural village in Japan. The name fits nicely with the simple atmosphere of this neighborhood restaurant at the junction of Hope Street and Blackstone Boulevard.

Ran Zan, unlike Sakura, does offer alcohol, and has a nice selection of both sake and Japanese beers to go with their sushi. (I'm a big fan of Kirin Ichiban and Sapporo.) The food itself is very reasonably priced, and offers some twists on the traditional offerings. One of my favorites is a Philly Roll, which combines smoked salmon with cucumber and cream cheese to create a truly unique taste. Of course, they have all the classics, too. I am also quite partial to their fried shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer, which is a great way to start a meal.

It is a relaxed place to have lunch or dinner, but also a good place to order takeout.

The Hearty Choice: Sushi Express

Like many people, I imagine, I was introduced to sushi as a sit-down meal, and only later began to think of it as a food to take home with me. At some point along the way, someone told me that in Japan, there are a lot of hole-in-the-wall places where you can get sushi quickly for lunch or a snack, without a lot of fuss or hassle. Sushi Express, as the name indicates, operates on that spirit. This small, narrow restaurant has a few stools if you'd like to eat in, but is primarily a takeout place. (If you've ever been into the original Spike's, just down a bit on Thayer Street from Sushi Express, you have a sense for how the space feels, though Sushi Express is, amazingly, even smaller.

One thing that impressed me right away was that the sushi rolls seem larger than the other restaurants in town. Normally, I'd be hungry after two orders of rolls (with is usually 12 of them) but that much completely fills me up at Sushi Express. And, depending on what you order, the cost will be a little over or under $10. Their selection is interesting, as in addition to the standard fare they have a few unique rolls with names taken from spots here in the Ocean State. I first went there while shopping on Thayer Street (they're at 281 Thayer), and it now coexists along with Spike's and East Side Pockets as a great place for a quick, tasty bite.