Go Right Now: Julian's

You always remember fondly your first date with the woman who eventually becomes your wife. Of course, it puts a bit of a cramp in it if she thinks the date was in a different restaurant than the one you remember. However, I've always had a better memory than her, so I'm pretty confident that our first date was, in fact, at Julian's, one of the more unconventional dining spots in Providence.

Located on Broadway at the border of Federal Hill and the funky West End, Julian's offers a great experience no matter when you feel like going. (Never has the title of this column been more appropriate.) Say, for example, you feel like breakfast. I guarantee you that Julian's brunch menu will offer something amazingly good that you never saw on a breakfast plate before. Last time, I had a blue cheese and broccoli hash that was a borderline sexual experience, and my wife looked somewhat hot and bothered as she chowed down on her vegan gingerbread pancakes. The mix of asian-inspired dishes, vegetarian delights (yes, I said it) and traditional favorites with a twist (or just flawless execution) is astounding.

Dinner is, arguably, even better (though the lines are usually longer for brunch, at least on Sunday). I'm a big fan of starting off with the grilled naan bread, but there are a ton of great starters to choose from. In fact, between the 'munch' items on the menu and the larger appetizers, it is a great time to go with a group of friends for some drinks and a bunch of dishes to share. But if you do follow in my footsteps and go on a date, you'll probably want a main course, and you can't go wrong with (just to name a few) the pumpkin gnocchi or the poached bass. To be honest, though, I usually check out their specials, and find something well worth trying.

If the food sounds offbeat and lively, the ambiance matches. The walls and ceiling are covered with odd artifacts, and you'll see something new that will serve as a conversation piece every time you go. The open kitchen offers its own form of entertainment. Yet it is still a very relaxing place, where you can truly feel at ease. I've watched several times some older and conservatively dressed folks sitting right next to a well-pierced group of hipsters, and neither looking the least bit uncomfortable. Maybe the polite, funny staff helps with that.

Julian's is hardly a Providence secret, but if you haven't been yet, you owe it to yourself to find out why they have so serial patrons, including me.

The Essentials:


Address: 318 Broadway, Providence
Cost for Two: Brunch will probably set you back $20 to $30 without any booze, and dinner is usually $50 to $60 with a couple of drinks, but it can go as high as $90 or so if you're getting the more expensive entrees.
Bar Savers: Check the board for beer specials. They often have unusual stuff for $2 or $3 per draft.
Eat Me: Everything they do with naan is worth trying
Next Stop: Mo Joe's Bar, at 166 Broadway, is a decent place to keep the party going, and get in a game of pool