Go Right Now: Hemenway's

We are now in the heart of Lent here in the most Catholic state in the country. Between the last gasps of winter cold and the restrictions and rules impressed upon us Catholics, it can seem a dreary, slow time. But those traditions can also be embraced to great benefit, in particular if one takes the Friday prohibition against eating meat to heart and decides to spend the evening dining at Hemenway's Seafood Grill and Oyster Bar.

Located in the heart of downtown Providence on South Main Street, Hemenway's is an energetic, sophisticated place to enjoy your favorite seafood dishes. The big main dining room wraps around an elevated bar (which is a great place to grab a cocktail and an appetizer if you're not in the mood for a full meal) and faces out onto the riverfront park that, in warmer months, packs in the crowds for WaterFire. But in the winter, it's a quiet, peaceful scene that you can take in through the huge floor-to-ceiling windows in the space. High over the tables and booths a series of neon signs of cartoonish fish add a lighthearted tough.

While Hemenway's offers the steak and chicken dishes seen on every seafood restaurant's menu, an informal survey of surrounding tables at several visits have indicated most everyone is there for the fish. There are a number of appetizers that put you in the right frame of mind, from delicious crab and lobster cakes to lobster ravioli, and of course the truly outstanding clam chowder. There is, of course, also the oyster bar, which I have never tried but heard widely praised. They generally offer an assortment of top varieties from up and down the coast for about $2.50 each.

But the entrees are the real attraction, and the best part is the great range of classic seafood dishes. On the one hand, you can order a large number of fresh catch items prepared simply, with traditional sides like a baked potato or fresh vegetables. You can also get New England fried favorites. Then there are some truly outstanding seafood pasta dishes, and my wife swears by the seafood caesar salad with fresh lobster, crab and shrimp.

Hemenway's is not the place to go for the latest fusion cuisine or bizarre fish you've never heard of. You won't find any sushi on the menu, either. But if you love seafood prepared the traditional way about as well as it can be done, then you can't do much better anywhere.

The Essentials:
Address: 121 South Main Street, Providence (call 401-351-8570 for reservations)
Cost for Two: With a bottle of wine and a shared appetizer, expect the bill to be around with tip. Entrees are typically around $20-$25, but dishes like lobster can be significantly more.
Bar Savers: Unfortunately, I don't know of any.
Eat Me: The stuffed shrimp is out of this world
Next Stop: It's a short walk down along the river to the Wild Colonial, one of the city's better bars. You're also about a block away from the Cable Car Cinema if you're looking for the complete date night experience.