A Week's Worth of Bars

I'm back, baby! After 46 days of almost total sobriety (there were a couple of necessary exceptions) I'm ready to get back in the swing of the nightlife. So what to do to get back in the swing of things? Well, it just so happens that I'm planning a week's worth of drinks, to get re-acquainted with the bars of Rhode Island. Here's the plan:

Monday: This one's already done, and it was a great start. I dragged my better half out to the Ivy Tavern for a couple of Sierra Nevadas and a huge plate of garlic fries. Best $20 I've spent in a long time.

Tuesday: With a little luck, The Blackstone will still have live jazz on Tuesday evenings. If not, I'll still be there for some pool.

Wednesday: I feel like I should break up the week with a place I've never been before. For reasons that elude even me, I'm intrigued by the Peddler's Inn off 95 in Pawtucket. So, why not?

Thursday: I'm already feeling I don't have enough days to get to all the places I want to reacquaint myself with, but Lili Marlene's has to be on the list. A gimlet and some funk is an absolute must.

Friday: To be honest, Friday may see me at more than one watering hole, but I'm planning to start the evening with some class by having a glass of Albarino at La Laiterie in Wayland Square. Heck, a shared bottle and their mac and cheese would probably do me for the night.

Saturday: If I can get myself out of town, Saturday is the perfect day for a trip out of Provtucket to go to Jamestown and The Narragansett Cafe. Aside from all its other charms, it even has 'the Gansett Gurney' to get its more inebriated patrons home safely.

Sunday: If it's the end of the week, and I need to convince myself the winter's ending, it will be the Hot Club, end of story.

Bar Tabs: Remington House Inn

What are the good parts of Rhode Island? Well, Providence is the center of what culture and class the state has. Pawtucket is the Billy Carter to Providence's Jimmy. Newport is its tourist hub. Bristol is Newport for the natives. Warren is the ever-so-slightly edgier version of Bristol, because there are two square blocks that feel blue collar. Jamestown and Block Island are where you go to dream of a different lifestyle. Westerly is that town you go to once a year and say 'why don't I come here more often?'

The point is, all these towns have an identity that draws at least some of us to leave our own and visit them. I could have gone on: Narragansett, Gloucester, Little Compton...all have their strong points. But then there are the towns that people are leaving to go to all these Rhody gems. And while there are actually quite a few (Johnston and North Providence, I'm talking to you), the Warwick/Cranston complex is the beating suburban heart of our state. So the question becomes, what do these towns have to offer the rest of us? What, besides Garden City and Twin Oaks, would draw us in?

In an attempt to find out, I asked my wife, who worked in Warwick for a while, if there were any places that she would recommend people check out. After a pause, she said simply 'The Remy'. A little later, we were on our way to the Remington House Inn, a bar and restaurant that is worth braving I-95 for.


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I posted this under Bar Tabs because we went for drinks and a few appetizers. But by the time we left at 6:30 on a Saturday, the restaurant was packed. It seems the Remy is not exactly a hidden gem. However, I would definitely recommend the bar experience. The drinks are very reasonably priced, and they have a nice selection of beers on tap. What's more, they have a good selection of happy hour appetizers that, at least the day we were there, were available until 6:00. (I had the impression they might have extended this an hour.) We got the bruschetta and the potato skins, which were both a step above the typical bar fare and more than filling enough.

But the real reasons to go are the location (in a cool old building by the water) and the crowd. The people there tend to be a little older than your average Providence crowd, and for whatever reason, this made the people-watching and eavesdropping spectacular. I was priviledged to hear two complete strangers debating the details of the Catholic sex abuse scandals of a few years ago, with one inebriated orator stating emphatically that, "the nuns are just as bad as the priests, and everyone in my school knew it." I only wish he had been together enough to explain where that came from. Another group of 40-somethings looked like teenagers sneaking a drink out of their parents' liquor cabinet, so thrilled were they to be ditching the kids and throwing down a few with some friends. After too many nights of hipper-than-thou bar patrons in the city, it was refreshing to see people letting loose and enjoying themselves, and observing the wild results.

I won't be making the Remington House a regular stop (I've become too much a Rhode Islander to take 95 that often), but I'll always keep it in mind when I need some tasty bar bites and a break from the regular scene.

Pawtucket Rising

I think the principle choice in my life is whether I turn left or right at the end of my street. Left, and I am swiftly on Hope Street, headed towards the familiar bars, restaurants, and other merry-making options that exist within the city that I consider my first adult home. Right, and I delve into the depths of Pawtucket, which seemed like a joke even after I bought a house just over the border. I mean, why would anyone go to Pawtucket when Providence is right there?

So why do I find myself more and more frequently turning right? Why do I now tell my colleagues at work in Boston that I live in Pawtucket? Why have I been shunning some of my more familiar Providence haunts? Because, at long last, the resurgence of Pawtucket is not just a dream or a theory, but a true, if fragile, thing.

I plan on writing more about what's going on in Pawtucket over the next few months, but I wanted to start by highlighting a few of the places you should be checking out right now.

The first thing you should do if you're a Pawtucket neophyte is to cruise through the downtown. The whole thing is actually on the National Register of Historical Places, mostly because of the fantastic 1800's commercial and industrial architecture. Despite a great number of architectural calamities, you'll get some sense of how wealthy and powerful the city was not too long ago.

While you're there, make sure to check out the Grant, and particularly Cafe Lila, which is making a strong push for being the best independent coffee house in the state. (In a pinch, I'd still give the crown to White Electric.) It is a hard place to describe, so go down to Main Street and check it out for yourself. And, if you want a treat, get a root beer float...you will be a very happy camper. Then check out the odd assortment of businesses and shops that make up the rest of the building.

Perhaps my favorite thing about Pawtucket right now cannot be localized in a single place: rather, it is the collection of artists that are giving the city its pulse which are so intriguing. To find out what's happening in the city's art scene, a good place to start is the Pawtucket Arts Collaborative. With the holidays upon us, you might consider finding some of the many art shows to fill your gift giving needs in a truly original, and beautiful, way.

But you need to sort of localize yourself to eat, and I'm sad to say I haven't eaten a meal in downtown Pawtucket yet (but I'm gunning for the China Inn this week.) Anyway, my favorite raft of Pawtucket restaurants is right on the border of Providence, in the plaza where LJ's Barbeque (which I've already written about) resides. If you're in the mood for something a bit lighter, that same plaza houses the Garden Grille, which is the only vegetarian restaurant that I, as a carnivore in good standing, have ever found to be a pleasant dining experience. It is one of the more unique restaurants in town, and I highly recommend it.

Finally, there are a number of quality bars throughout Pawtucket, many of which have been documented on this site (subliminal message time: gototheBlackstone!). But the most recent addition to my laundry list of bars is certainly the News Cafe, which has friendly people, cheap drinks, and an overall good vibe. When you're tired of the increasing expensification of Providence, it's sweet relief.

Anyway, this is just a primer. The best way to explore Pawtucket is to get in your car, hop on I-95, and get off any exit between 26 and 30. You'll find something worth your time. I guarantee it.

Bar Tabs: East Avenue Cafe

If the East Avenue Cafe had a pool table, I'd live there. Last year, it closed for remodeling, and I was convinced that it would open up with a beautiful expanse of green felt in a corner somewhere. Or at least a foosball table or a dartboard. Something to keep you entertained when the game was a blowout or you needed to slow down your drinking pace. But alas, East Ave, in the Oak Hill section of Pawtucket, is the classic bar/restaurant, and so I've decided to love it on its own terms. And, even though I might not be there every Friday night, there's still a lot to love.


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First of all is the beer selection. In addition to a great range of beers on tap (usually about 15, including Sierra Nevada, which is great on draft) they have a huge case of about 50 exotic beers from around the world. The bartenders are very knowledgeable about the beers, and can guide you to some new labels that you'll greatly enjoy.

Just as good as the drink is the food. My wife has been talking about their buffalo fries since we first tried them a few weeks ago, and they have the slew of classic Rhode Island appetizers. If you're in the mood to be a little less engorged, their salads are quite good for a bar, and of course they have all the burgers and sandwiches you could want. Their menu is actually quite extensive, and included a range of entrees from steaks to seafood to barbeque.

The ambiance is half Irish pub, half sports bar. Tonight, as I'll join the packed house there for the Red Sox game, it will definitely feel more sports bars, as their 10 or so TVs will all be tuned to the game. (Get a table in the dining section in front of the big screen and you'll be all set.) But when the Sox season ends, there's still a relaxed neighborhood vibe, a good jukebox and some cool Rhode Island and Ireland paraphernalia to check out.

I'm willing to forgive the fact that East Ave isn't the exact bar I'd want around the corner, as long as it keeps doing what it does so well.

Date Night: Temple Bar and the Philharmonic

The art of dating is in danger of degenerating into a series of hookups, hanging out, clubbing, and the occassional dinner. There, I said it, you heathens.

Alright, so that's crap, but it's undeniable that pulling off a date, as classically defined, is harder and rarer than it used to be. First, we do live in a casual culture, and it can be difficult to ask someone who you've only been seeing a short time to do something very formal like go to a theater performance or a charity function. And us married folk often neglect to force ourselves and our spouses out of the various ruts we fall into.

But a date is good for you. The person your with is likely to take it as a compliment that you'd go through the trouble of planning something beyond the ordinary, and you'll feel good for having spent a bit more time and effort on thinking through a nice evening. Fortunately, Rhode Island does have some good 'date' venues. Some of them, like Trinity Rep, are well-known. But there are lots of lesser-known performing art groups, galleries, and other cultural happenings in our state that can help you to class up your Saturday.

And, gentlemen, you look better in that suit than in your tight jeans and a polo shirt. Trust me, she will agree.

This past Saturday, I went on my first such date in a month or two. It went well enough that I'd recommend the itinerary to you. We had two tickets to the opening night of the Rhode Island Philharmonic, which featured Beethoven's 5th Symphony, but thought we'd first head over to Temple, the bar in the new Marriott Renaissance hotel in the Masonic Temple Building. The first cool thing you'll notice about Temple is the grafitti art scattered throughout, a reference to the massive amounts of grafitti that covered the inside of the building before it was rehabbed:

But Temple is a lot more than a cool space. They have a great bar menu, which includes basic bar foods and good seafood dishes (try the stuffies!) at reasonable prices. They also have a good list of wines by the glass, and have even figured out how to make a decent caipirinha. (If you want the best one in the state, you'll have to find your way to my house. I learned from a pro.)

After our drink, we headed over to Veteran's Memorial Auditorium for the concert. My chief complaint about this facility is the small seats: it's the Fenway Park of concert halls. But the space is very nice, and like Fenway you are very close to the action. The acoustics are good, and the Philharmonic itself compares well to the orchestras in much larger cities. Larry Rachleff, the music director and conductor, brings a great deal of energy, enthusiasm and good humor to the ensemble. (True story: at the end of intermission, he announced he'd stay after to take questions from the audience. This being the middle of the Red Sox-Indians game, someone yelled out "What's going on with the Red Sox?!" He smiled, pretended to be confused, and said, "But my socks are black!" Then he turned and started conducting Beethoven.)

Afterwards, we went back to Temple for another drink and to check the Sox score. Surprisingly, the place really fills up with a younger crowd after about 10:00. Still, they had enough bartenders to handle the crowd.

You can probably have a round of drinks and a decent array of bar food at Temple for around $40, maybe a bit more if you get cocktails and more expensive dishes. The tickets we got for the concert were $65 each in the front section. They can still be expensive in the upper level, but students can get really cheap tickets with their IDs in many cases. At any rate, for under $100 a person, you can have a high-society night of sophisticated drinking and music that can compare well to one you'd have in a much larger city.

The Dive Bar Tour of Providence

As I get older, it is a comfort to tell myself that I am getting more sophisticated. I enjoy a nice bottle of wine more than I would a six pack of beer. I like places that have cool music or interesting art or good lighting. But the reality is that I'm not a particularly sophisticated person, and I've always enjoyed the pleasures of cheap beer, weird crowds, and the ever-so-slight chance that there might be a bar fight. So, to fully celebrate the joys of the more blue collar watering holes in our capital city, I took my wife (who was the designated driver and reluctant participant) and a degenerate friend who we'll just refer to as Panda, and set out on a tour of our favorite sketchy bars.

(A quick note: there are more sketchy places than the five we went to. But there are fun dive bars and there are places where people get murdered.)

We started with a trip down memory lane. As all three of us are Providence College grads (thus the above-average tolerance), we thought to start the night with a trip to Louie's, a trashy place that was liberal in its over-21 policy. It also had a trough in the men's room in the place of urinals. But it must of suffered through one too many raids, because it is now closed. So we improvised and went to Elmhurst Pub on Smith Street as our alternate college dive.

We were a little disappointed at first glance. There were flat screen TV's on the wall. A decent assortment of beers, including several on tap, had replaced the old fridge full of domestic cans. The crowd seemed largely respectable, and they even had an ID scanner. (Sorry, college kids.) We weren't sure we could even qualify it as a dive bar.

But there were some redeeming features, like the very active Keno business taking place at the bar, and the retro, very ugly bar stools and wood panelling. But the most dive bar-ish feature of all was the on-tap Icehouse, a beer I haven't even thought about since I turned 21. So we ordered a pitcher (which cost $7.75) and settled in. We soon remembered the reason why no respectable adult drinks Icehouse. It tastes like feet and sour apples. But we quickly finished it up and headed on to bar number two.

And let me just say from the first that the Lithuanian Club (also on Smith Street, though the door is down the side street a bit) wins the best dive bar award of the night hands down. Leave aside the $7.00 pitcher of Miller Lite, the best drink deal of the night. Leave aside the probable crack addict in the back. Leave aside the $1 jello shots that were suddenly available, the ancient picture of Carl Yastremski tacked to the wall, or the big screen TV from 1982. No, you go to the Lithuanian club for two reasons: first, a crowd of crazy, fun people doing bad karaoke with gusto, and second, you can still smoke. That's right, it's a social club, and thus just about the only place you can still go in Providence to combine your two favorite vices. And, as a topper to all that, it has a glass cube bar:

So Panda got the pitcher, did his famous karaoke rendition of Dennis Leary's "Asshole", and I did my part by performing the Lumberjack Song.

Next up, we shot over to Ives Street to check out Captain Seaweed's. The only other time we'd been there, it was full of surly Portuguese guys and a friend of ours (who's a bit of a chicken) freaked out and ended up helping them put the chairs up so he wouldn't get stabbed. But it's really quite a friendly place, and indeed has been largely colonized by Brown kids, making it feel decidedly respectable. (Panda thought the mirrors over the bar completely took away the edge.) Still, the nautical decorations add a cool, funky touch, and there are plenty of respectable dive-ish entertainments, from pool and foosball to the Maxx Sapphire video game system on the corner of the bar (which, last I played it, has a bizarre strip poker game on it.) You could get the classic 16 ounce Narragansett cans for $2, which is another plus. So we left, but not before I showed my appreciation for their hospitality:



Next it was off to the Penalty Box on North Main Street. When Panda and I first went here, it was as big a dive as we'd ever been to, one of those Bud and Bud Light places. Now the inevitable gentrification of that part of town has somewhat taken the edge off, but made it much more fun, so it's worth including. While it's the only bar on the tour to lack a pool table (a major sin) it makes up for it by having Golden Tee, pinball and Ms. Pacman, as well as a regular slate of live music.

The night we went, a four piece rock band was playing, led by a guitarist who kept taking his clothes off while demanding someone buy him a shot. So despite the flatscreens and the nicer floors, it's still got some dive to it. Panda was a little distracted by some of the cute/scantily clad (or as the wife said 'slutty' girls at the bar, and bought Guiness, which cost $4 a pop. But they have Narragansett and other cheaper beers on tap, as well as a Yagermeister machine. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Our last stop was supposed to be the City Line Pub, also on North Main, but it was closed by the time we got there, so we broke one of our tour rules and crossed about a half mile into Pawtucket. There, we went to Murray's Pub on Main Street, which deserves inclusion if only because it embraces its low-rent status to the point that it is housed in a trailer and has a porch festooned in Christmas lights.

Like the Lithuanian Club, Murray's features pool (in a little back room) and Karaoke, although this crowd tends to go more to hip-hop songs than monster ballads. At this point, my wife was getting a bit impatient, so we quickly downed $5 shots of Yager, chased them with $2.25 Budweisers, and staggered off into the night, content that tomorrow's hangovers would be reminders of why we crave sophistication as we age. Basically, because we can't take the alternative any more.

Your Weekend Agenda

As always, we present your agenda for a weekend of fun and enlightenment. The RhodyRocks team (by which I mean my wife and I) are feeling a little light in the wallet lately, so our goal for the weekend was to get you through with as little damage as possible. So, everything on the agenda this week is cheap or free. Then, as a little bonus, we threw in a Sunday night budget-buster if you're feeling frisky. Enjoy.

Thursday: Tonight feels like a night for The Blackstone Tonight they have Corinne Wahlberg on the stage at 9:00, and I'm sure the televisions will be tuned to the Yankees getting whooped up on by the Cleveland Indians. The Blackstone is located on Main Street in Pawtucket (see the review on this blog for more details.) There may be a $5 cover: you've been warned.

Friday: Cafe Zog isn't exactly known as a live music place, which is a shame, because it hosts occassional shows that are intimate, a little weird, and a good chance to actually meet some local artists and musicians. This Friday, they're hosting a free show featuring a bunch of bands and performers, including Nick Anderson, Ben Pilgrim and Smiling Carcinogens. It's on Wickenden Street in Providence, and it starts at 8:00

Saturday: Spend your afternoon among the spokes and handlebars at AS220's Broke and Busted Bike Swap and Sale. This free event will feature cheap bikes, cool bikes, bike parts, a lot of bike people, and of course easy access to the wonderful tacos at Taqueria Pacifica, inside AS220's cool art space. And unlike most biker events, you won't have to deal with revving Harley engines and exhaust fumes. It's from 12-5 on Empire Street in Providence.

As sun sets, get your English on by heading to the 10th annual Guy Fawkes Bonfire Night at the Andrea Hotel in Misquamicut. In addition to the traditional reenactment of the execution of Guy Fawkes (who famously tried to blow up Parliament in the name of the 'Papist religion'), there will be entertainment from the Misquamicut Players, The Kentish Guards Fife and Drum and an assortment of other properly British attractions. It's free and starts at 7:00 at 89 Atlantic Avenue. You've got to love a reason to get to the shore one last time before winter.

Sunday: Go from English to Italian festivities up on Federal Hill in Providence, as Atwells Ave. celebrates Columbus Day in style. There will be a parade, great food, and the shebang will include Maryann Esposito of theCiao Italia cooking show on PBS. Additionally, soul band Tribeca will be playing from 2 to 6. The parade starts at noon, and of course everything is free except the massive amounts of food you're sure to find irresistable.

Finish up the weekend with a laugh. Score tickets to see the very funny Brian Regan at the PPAC. If you've taken advantage of all the free and cheap events this weekend, you should be able to swing the $32.50 ticket charge. The show starts at 7:30.

Bar Tabs: The Blackstone

Imagine if you and your friends decided to open up a bar, and you had no financial restrictions. What would you put it it? A pool table? Better make that two, and throw in foosball for a change of pace. A good jukebox? Of course. An area with comfortable chairs and couches you can just chill. Big TV's for watching the game. A stage for live music. A porch for smoking or hanging out on a nice night. Decent bar food. A nice wraparound bar with plenty of seats and a good beer selection. You would make it big enough that you always had room to move and relax. And you'd want it to be full of cool neon signs, some bar mirrors, and a general cool look.

Clearly, the people who run The Blackstone understand their audience, because their bar has all that and probably a few other nice features I'm forgetting. The Blackstone is the latest incarnation of a bar that has been open for quite a while, but in a couple of different locations. Now it has moved from Cumberland to a location within easy reach of anyone in Providence, at 1005 Main Street in Pawtucket.


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The Blackstone has quickly become my default watering hole. I enjoy it equally on the quiet weekday nights when I just want to drink a beer and watch a game with some company, and on the weekends when it is taken over by a stream of live acts, most of which are good to very good. (The only downside is that on Friday and Saturday, you'll likely to pay a $5 cover.)

A big part of the appeal is the space itself. The Blackstone is located in Hope Village, an old mill complex that is being redeveloped into living quarters, artists' space and shops. While much of it is still under development, dozens of businesses, most prominently the Blackstone, have already set up shop. The dimensions of the mill means that they have plenty of space to accommodate big crowds; the owners note that the bar is technically the third-largest live music venue in the state.

The crowd is very casual; jeans and t-shirts are the standard attire, though some of the bands may bring with them a more hipster or punk-ish crowd. But with so many things going on, you'll always be able to find a way to fit in and be comfortable here.

How to End a (Long) Weekend

Holiday weekends are always bittersweet to me, because it is so easy to be lulled into the feeling that your work life has been left behind, and your life now is all about hanging out, being outside, visiting with friends, anything but plowing through another day in a cubicle. Then that Monday afternoon starts slipping away, and you realize you'll roll out of bed the next morning, the weight of responsibility if anything a bit heavier, and do whatever it is you DO.

To stave off that feeling of impending dread, the best tonic is to slow down with a cold beer at a nice spot, and watch the sun set. There are some very nice locations around Newport and Narragansett to do just that, but if you're in Providence and want the best possible experience, you need the Hot Club.


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In the shadow of the new I-195 bridge, the Hot Club boasts a great view of the water, the power plant across the water, and the buildings of downtown. The whole building is oriented to take maximum advantage of this view, with a long outdoor deck (hey, you can still smoke!) connected to a small, cozy building with a long bar, a shelf overlooking the water, and a few booths. Sit outside if you can, both for the breezes and the good-bad 80's music playing from the outside bar.

The best time to go is about 45 minutes before sunset, especially if you can stay a few hours. You'll see the sun go down between the power plant and downtown, then the lights of the city and the plant kick in (the power plant is strangely beautiful at dusk) and throughout can watch the occassional boat go by or fish being caught nearby.

The crowd is as eclectic as Rhode Island, with young hoochies and the men who love them scampering around near hipsters and students, the motorcycle set, 30-something professionals, and the die-hard natives annoyed that every good place is too crowded.

As for eating and drinking, all the summertime coctails are passable, though you might get a plastic cup if they're busy or you look unreliable. The wine is pretty bland, but they have a decent beer selection and stock cheap Gansetts and other brews. A popular culinary feature is the free popcorn popped in an old-timey machine all day, and if you're too hungry to go somewhere more geared to food, they have an assortment of basic bar fare.

But all that seems almost incidental sometimes, as you're fortifying yourself for the week that's looming, and reminding yourself why you love it in Rhode Island.

Go Right Now: The Red Fez

Everyone has a place they like to go when they feel a little down and they want to redeem the day. For me and my wife, that place is the Red Fez. It's a perfect combination of funky restaurant and chill bar, and it's within walking distance of the best of downtown Providence. If you find yourself at Waterfire and feel the sudden urge to be a bit hipper, get yourself to the Fez, pronto.

When you walk in, the first thing you'll notice is the dim lighting and the odd artwork on the wall. (Say hi to Strong-Ass Sal for me.) Grab a seat downstairs for a more traditional restaurant experience, or ask to go up for the more raucus pub atmosphere. Either way, you'll have a lot of great menu options. The Red Fez has a wide range of appetizers, from a simple hummus plate to the more sophisticated. They also have a late night snacking menu with some great smaller dishes. But your best bet is to go straight to entrees, especially if you like the cheesy goodness of arguably the best mac and cheese you'll ever have. My wife and I fight over who gets to order it. The loser gets the sausage plate, a sandwich, or another of the eclectic America-meets-Turkey-and-goes-to-France type of offerings, and never leaves unhappy.

Aside from the dining, the experience is great. You can spend the whole night checking out the interesting people and the wild decorations. You'll enjoy a music selection that keeps your energy up yet doesn't intrude. Hell, you might feel so good you buy beers for the kitchen. And they encourage that.

The essentials:

The Red Fez
49 Peck St
Providence, RI 02903
(401) 272-1212

Entrees: $10 to $20
Bar Savers: Cheap Gansetts and Schlitz are dirt cheap. They always have a bottle of cheap champagne avaiable
Eat Me: Get the mac and cheese and die happy.

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