A Week's Worth of Bars

I'm back, baby! After 46 days of almost total sobriety (there were a couple of necessary exceptions) I'm ready to get back in the swing of the nightlife. So what to do to get back in the swing of things? Well, it just so happens that I'm planning a week's worth of drinks, to get re-acquainted with the bars of Rhode Island. Here's the plan:

Monday: This one's already done, and it was a great start. I dragged my better half out to the Ivy Tavern for a couple of Sierra Nevadas and a huge plate of garlic fries. Best $20 I've spent in a long time.

Tuesday: With a little luck, The Blackstone will still have live jazz on Tuesday evenings. If not, I'll still be there for some pool.

Wednesday: I feel like I should break up the week with a place I've never been before. For reasons that elude even me, I'm intrigued by the Peddler's Inn off 95 in Pawtucket. So, why not?

Thursday: I'm already feeling I don't have enough days to get to all the places I want to reacquaint myself with, but Lili Marlene's has to be on the list. A gimlet and some funk is an absolute must.

Friday: To be honest, Friday may see me at more than one watering hole, but I'm planning to start the evening with some class by having a glass of Albarino at La Laiterie in Wayland Square. Heck, a shared bottle and their mac and cheese would probably do me for the night.

Saturday: If I can get myself out of town, Saturday is the perfect day for a trip out of Provtucket to go to Jamestown and The Narragansett Cafe. Aside from all its other charms, it even has 'the Gansett Gurney' to get its more inebriated patrons home safely.

Sunday: If it's the end of the week, and I need to convince myself the winter's ending, it will be the Hot Club, end of story.

Have a 'Gansett, or Maybe Something Pricier

I'm tragically late in getting to this excellent article by Ian Donnis in the Phoenix, especially since my wife left the paper for me a month ago. But Donnis does an expert job of profiling the growth of the craft beer scene in Rhode Island, from the best liquor stores to go to for exotic brews, to some bars like Track 84 in Warwick that feature great beers on tap. (But he doesn't say whether the Portuguese-American Social Club in Fox Point is open to the public, which is a major oversight.)

What really got me excited, though, was the sidebar where hehttp://www.blogger.com/img/gl.link.gif notes that president Mark Hellendrung is hoping to start brewing on Providence's West Side this year, and as part of the move would open a beer garden on the site. I can't even describe how unbelievably cool this is. The story none-too-subtly hints that the decision will be based on first quarter sales of Narragansett, so make sure you go stock up before the end of march and bring our great, cheap, local beer home. I'll see you at the beer garden.

Go Right Now: Hemenway's

We are now in the heart of Lent here in the most Catholic state in the country. Between the last gasps of winter cold and the restrictions and rules impressed upon us Catholics, it can seem a dreary, slow time. But those traditions can also be embraced to great benefit, in particular if one takes the Friday prohibition against eating meat to heart and decides to spend the evening dining at Hemenway's Seafood Grill and Oyster Bar.

Located in the heart of downtown Providence on South Main Street, Hemenway's is an energetic, sophisticated place to enjoy your favorite seafood dishes. The big main dining room wraps around an elevated bar (which is a great place to grab a cocktail and an appetizer if you're not in the mood for a full meal) and faces out onto the riverfront park that, in warmer months, packs in the crowds for WaterFire. But in the winter, it's a quiet, peaceful scene that you can take in through the huge floor-to-ceiling windows in the space. High over the tables and booths a series of neon signs of cartoonish fish add a lighthearted tough.

While Hemenway's offers the steak and chicken dishes seen on every seafood restaurant's menu, an informal survey of surrounding tables at several visits have indicated most everyone is there for the fish. There are a number of appetizers that put you in the right frame of mind, from delicious crab and lobster cakes to lobster ravioli, and of course the truly outstanding clam chowder. There is, of course, also the oyster bar, which I have never tried but heard widely praised. They generally offer an assortment of top varieties from up and down the coast for about $2.50 each.

But the entrees are the real attraction, and the best part is the great range of classic seafood dishes. On the one hand, you can order a large number of fresh catch items prepared simply, with traditional sides like a baked potato or fresh vegetables. You can also get New England fried favorites. Then there are some truly outstanding seafood pasta dishes, and my wife swears by the seafood caesar salad with fresh lobster, crab and shrimp.

Hemenway's is not the place to go for the latest fusion cuisine or bizarre fish you've never heard of. You won't find any sushi on the menu, either. But if you love seafood prepared the traditional way about as well as it can be done, then you can't do much better anywhere.

The Essentials:
Address: 121 South Main Street, Providence (call 401-351-8570 for reservations)
Cost for Two: With a bottle of wine and a shared appetizer, expect the bill to be around with tip. Entrees are typically around $20-$25, but dishes like lobster can be significantly more.
Bar Savers: Unfortunately, I don't know of any.
Eat Me: The stuffed shrimp is out of this world
Next Stop: It's a short walk down along the river to the Wild Colonial, one of the city's better bars. You're also about a block away from the Cable Car Cinema if you're looking for the complete date night experience.

A Cultured Weekend

This weekend, there are two interesting cultural events that might be well worth checking out. The first is an 18th century Irish music concert, featuring pipes, cello, and harpsichord. (Seems like a high class way to start prepping for St. Patrick's Day.) It's being put on by the Newport Baroque Orchestra at St. John the Evangelist Church on Poplar Street in Newport. It starts at 8:00 on Friday.

According to the press information, Jerry O'Sullivan, one of the musicians, is in fact, "America's premier uilleann piper." (It's basically an Irish bagpipe.) How often can you say you saw that, and for only $25 a ticket.

On Saturday evening, also at 8:00, the RI Philharmonic will be hosting a night of music by American composers, featuring pianist Terrence Wilson playing some of Gershwin's most beloved works, including Rhapsody in Blue. Tickets for the philharmonic tend to be pricey, but they're well worth it both for the quality of the performances and the intimacy of the venue.

If the classical stuff doesn't fit the bill, I'd direct you to lotsofnoise, where you will find information on cool shows at Firehouse 13, AS220, and a film screening at Pawtucket recording studio Machines with Magnets.

Happy weekending.

Go Right Now: Julian's

You always remember fondly your first date with the woman who eventually becomes your wife. Of course, it puts a bit of a cramp in it if she thinks the date was in a different restaurant than the one you remember. However, I've always had a better memory than her, so I'm pretty confident that our first date was, in fact, at Julian's, one of the more unconventional dining spots in Providence.

Located on Broadway at the border of Federal Hill and the funky West End, Julian's offers a great experience no matter when you feel like going. (Never has the title of this column been more appropriate.) Say, for example, you feel like breakfast. I guarantee you that Julian's brunch menu will offer something amazingly good that you never saw on a breakfast plate before. Last time, I had a blue cheese and broccoli hash that was a borderline sexual experience, and my wife looked somewhat hot and bothered as she chowed down on her vegan gingerbread pancakes. The mix of asian-inspired dishes, vegetarian delights (yes, I said it) and traditional favorites with a twist (or just flawless execution) is astounding.

Dinner is, arguably, even better (though the lines are usually longer for brunch, at least on Sunday). I'm a big fan of starting off with the grilled naan bread, but there are a ton of great starters to choose from. In fact, between the 'munch' items on the menu and the larger appetizers, it is a great time to go with a group of friends for some drinks and a bunch of dishes to share. But if you do follow in my footsteps and go on a date, you'll probably want a main course, and you can't go wrong with (just to name a few) the pumpkin gnocchi or the poached bass. To be honest, though, I usually check out their specials, and find something well worth trying.

If the food sounds offbeat and lively, the ambiance matches. The walls and ceiling are covered with odd artifacts, and you'll see something new that will serve as a conversation piece every time you go. The open kitchen offers its own form of entertainment. Yet it is still a very relaxing place, where you can truly feel at ease. I've watched several times some older and conservatively dressed folks sitting right next to a well-pierced group of hipsters, and neither looking the least bit uncomfortable. Maybe the polite, funny staff helps with that.

Julian's is hardly a Providence secret, but if you haven't been yet, you owe it to yourself to find out why they have so serial patrons, including me.

The Essentials:


Address: 318 Broadway, Providence
Cost for Two: Brunch will probably set you back $20 to $30 without any booze, and dinner is usually $50 to $60 with a couple of drinks, but it can go as high as $90 or so if you're getting the more expensive entrees.
Bar Savers: Check the board for beer specials. They often have unusual stuff for $2 or $3 per draft.
Eat Me: Everything they do with naan is worth trying
Next Stop: Mo Joe's Bar, at 166 Broadway, is a decent place to keep the party going, and get in a game of pool

Three Ways to Get Your Sushi Fix

Let me preface this article by noting how little I know about sushi. I was definitely a latecomer to the raw fish trend, having tried it for the first time less than three years ago. But since then, I've fairly regularly found myself trekking out for it with my wife, or bringing some back home to pair up with wine and a movie. While there are a number of respected sushi joints in Providence, I've found three that each meet a different need in my life, and these are the ones I'd recommend if you find yourself in a similar state.

A caveat: I usually eat maki (rolls), with a bit of the less adventurous nigiri or sashimi (a slice of fish, which in the case of nigiri comes on a ball of rice). So sushi purists who want to know the best place for the more exotic stuff should probably ignore everything I say.

The Atmospheric Choice: Sakura

There will always be a special place in my heart for Sakura because it counts as a romantic dinner out to my wife, yet costs a lot less than most other restaurants that get that designation, in large part because it is BYOB. You also can't escape the fact you're in a sushi restaurant, especially if you sit in the back room where you take your shoes off and sit at low tables. (If you've been sweating in your sneakers all day, there are regular tables in the front room.) The waitstaff is also dressed in traditional garb, adding to the feel that you've left Providence behind (at least, if you're not seated next to a bunch of college students passing a bunch of booze around, Sakura's only downfall.)

The assortment of sushi is pretty standard, and there are some combo plates for big groups. They also have tempura and a bunch of 'regular' food like beef, chicken and fried shrimp, but that seems mostly for sushi sissies. So, if you'd like to lose yourself for a few hours, grab a good bottle of wine and head to 231 Wickenden Street.

The Relaxed Choice: Ran Zan


View Larger MapI learned just now, from its web site, that Ran Zan is the name of a rural village in Japan. The name fits nicely with the simple atmosphere of this neighborhood restaurant at the junction of Hope Street and Blackstone Boulevard.

Ran Zan, unlike Sakura, does offer alcohol, and has a nice selection of both sake and Japanese beers to go with their sushi. (I'm a big fan of Kirin Ichiban and Sapporo.) The food itself is very reasonably priced, and offers some twists on the traditional offerings. One of my favorites is a Philly Roll, which combines smoked salmon with cucumber and cream cheese to create a truly unique taste. Of course, they have all the classics, too. I am also quite partial to their fried shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer, which is a great way to start a meal.

It is a relaxed place to have lunch or dinner, but also a good place to order takeout.

The Hearty Choice: Sushi Express

Like many people, I imagine, I was introduced to sushi as a sit-down meal, and only later began to think of it as a food to take home with me. At some point along the way, someone told me that in Japan, there are a lot of hole-in-the-wall places where you can get sushi quickly for lunch or a snack, without a lot of fuss or hassle. Sushi Express, as the name indicates, operates on that spirit. This small, narrow restaurant has a few stools if you'd like to eat in, but is primarily a takeout place. (If you've ever been into the original Spike's, just down a bit on Thayer Street from Sushi Express, you have a sense for how the space feels, though Sushi Express is, amazingly, even smaller.

One thing that impressed me right away was that the sushi rolls seem larger than the other restaurants in town. Normally, I'd be hungry after two orders of rolls (with is usually 12 of them) but that much completely fills me up at Sushi Express. And, depending on what you order, the cost will be a little over or under $10. Their selection is interesting, as in addition to the standard fare they have a few unique rolls with names taken from spots here in the Ocean State. I first went there while shopping on Thayer Street (they're at 281 Thayer), and it now coexists along with Spike's and East Side Pockets as a great place for a quick, tasty bite.

Bar Tabs: Local 121

For the second straight time, I'm writing a Bar Tabs entry about a spot that's at least as much restaurant as bar. And if you want to go to Local 121, at 121 Washington Street (and isn't that convenient?) in downtown Providence, for dinner, you'll be in good company. I've heard the food is good, and they seem to be getting a good crowd. But even if you're in for the meal, you might want to consider asking to be seated in the bar, because in my humble opinion, it is clearly the draw of the place.

The first thing you'll notice when you hang a right into the Tap Room, as they call it, is how amazing all the details are. The bar is filled with panelling that is out of this world in its ornateness, and the space is filled with stained glass windows that are (so I'm told) made out of bottle bottoms. The room is long and narrow, giving it a hole-in-the-wall feel that is accentuated by the minimal lighting, just enough to bring out the character in the space.

One thing I really like about the place is that they have a nice variety of beers on tap, from the local and cheap (aka Narragansett) to the exotic and tasty. I've tried a few beers there I'd never heard of before, which is getting rather hard to pull off, and I've been pleasantly surprised both times. And the prices are entirely in line with what you pay at the neighborhood bar: they haven't tried to institute a cool tax by charging $8 for a Stella Artois or something.

And this is a good thing, because Local 121 is undeniably a cool place. They routinely have DJs playing some cool/random/trippy music, and make sure the vibe is clean and modern without being snobby or off-putting. It is a place I go when I need my watering hole to make me feel a bit more hip, not just to help distract me from the lowlights of my day. Add to that the fact that I've had some of the best bar conversations ever there, and it all starts to add up to a pretty robust drinking experience.

If the fliers I saw the other day are true, there is a regular DJ gig at Local 121 on Monday, and I'm planning on checking it out. I'll let them surprise me with a new beer, order something tasty from the small plate menu (they serve their full dinner menu in the bar until midnight, another big plus) and try to get into an interesting conversation. There are much worse ways to start your week.

Early Week Suggestions

While most of you are probably like me in that you do most of your merry-making between Thursday and Sunday, you might find yourself itching to get out early in the week now and again. If so, I have two suggestions on recurring activities that might make it worth your while to leave your couch before the weekend hits.

On Mondays, think about heading down to Trinity Brewhouse in downtown Providence for cheap wings, football (at least for the next few weeks) and some of the best beer in the state. And if wings aren't enough for you, I'll add that I had these guys cater my wedding, so either the food is pretty awesome or I'm a sad individual (or both, I suppose.) I'd highly recommend sitting at the bar; it's a good crowd.

On Tuesdays, you can't go wrong by heading to the Blackstone for live jazz. Mike Tanaka and friends put on a free show every Tuesday starting at 8:00, there's a limited food selection, and you still get all the many joys that come with the Blackstone. (If you don't feel like clicking over to my write-up of the place, it is at 1005 Main Street in Pawtucket.)

I have to be honest, I don't have a good regular Wednesday event. (If there continue to be Wednesday DJ sessions at Local 121 downtown, that may be it.) So, readers, if you have any thoughts, please email me or post them in the comments.

Wake up, Downtown!

I understand, despite my relentless boosterism, that Providence is not a big city, and it is going to lack that big city energy, especially on a weekday night. However, I'd like to put the thought out there that Thursday isn't really a weekday, it's sort of a celebrity guest part of the weekend, and should therefore get at least a minimum of respect.

So why, people, when I walk around downtown does it seem like a Tuesday night in Davenport, Iowa? (Disclaimer: for all I know, Tuesdays in Davenport are like a rolling Mardi Gras. The day I go to Davenport is the day I give up any remaining feelings of usefulness and fully embrace the fact that I'm an old fart. Sorry Davenport, but you suck even if you don't suck.) I decided to grab a quick drink just because my wife has abandoned me for the evening and I didn't want to sit in a cold house and think about how much work I have to do. So I took off for downtown, seeing hardly anyone around. Finally I parked near the Episcopal church, thinking that surely XO Cafe would have a few people milling around the bar. But nope, there were two people in the whole place. So on to plan B: I've never been to Olive's, so I thought I'd get a cocktail and check it out. There was one other person in the joint, and I think he might have been on To Catch a Predator a week or two ago. I've never drank gin so fast.

Every day, I go up to Boston for work. And every time someone asks, I say Providence is cooler than Boston, and get roundly laughed at. Now, Providence, if some Boston person comes down here on a Thursday night and sees what I saw, we're going to look bad. So let's pull it together, and tie one on during the week for the sake of our community.

That said, I am too disgusted to write a full Weekend Agenda. If anyone's reading and has some good plans, send me a note at dan (at symbol) rhodyrocks.com. But if I was going to advise you to do anything, other than frequent your local watering hole, it would be to check out Friday Night Live on the Carriage House Stage at 7 Duncan Ave. in Providence. It's Friday, 7:00, and is only $5. How can you go wrong? I even gave you a map.

No excuses. Make me proud, Providence.


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A Quick Saturday Recommendation

I had one of those 'perfect storm' weeks where too much happens to get on and blog. But I'm back, baby, and I'd like to make it up to you.

First, this Saturday is free-for-all at the RISD Museum, so it's a good time to go check out some great art in a great space. It's a great day for kids, too: the Puppet People will put on their rendition of the Legend of Sleepy Hollow. It's free, 11-4, and the museum is 224 Benefit Street in Providence. (But of course, you knew that.)

I was going to recommend the Olneyville Fall Festival, too, but the weather makes it a little less appealing. If you're willing to brave the rain, it's at Donigan Park on Valley Street, Providence. There will be children’s activities, canoe rides, rock climbing, pumpkin painting, and more goodness. No word on whether they'll cancel due to inclement weather, though the rock climbing might be perilous.

Finally, there's a Waterfire tonight; last of the year. And while I'll be watching the Red Sox, I will say that Waterfire on a drizzly night in the fall is a much different, and maybe even better, experience than it is on a packed summer night.

I'll try to get back later today with another review of a good place to watch the Sox in the Series, and some other stuff.

Date Night: Temple Bar and the Philharmonic

The art of dating is in danger of degenerating into a series of hookups, hanging out, clubbing, and the occassional dinner. There, I said it, you heathens.

Alright, so that's crap, but it's undeniable that pulling off a date, as classically defined, is harder and rarer than it used to be. First, we do live in a casual culture, and it can be difficult to ask someone who you've only been seeing a short time to do something very formal like go to a theater performance or a charity function. And us married folk often neglect to force ourselves and our spouses out of the various ruts we fall into.

But a date is good for you. The person your with is likely to take it as a compliment that you'd go through the trouble of planning something beyond the ordinary, and you'll feel good for having spent a bit more time and effort on thinking through a nice evening. Fortunately, Rhode Island does have some good 'date' venues. Some of them, like Trinity Rep, are well-known. But there are lots of lesser-known performing art groups, galleries, and other cultural happenings in our state that can help you to class up your Saturday.

And, gentlemen, you look better in that suit than in your tight jeans and a polo shirt. Trust me, she will agree.

This past Saturday, I went on my first such date in a month or two. It went well enough that I'd recommend the itinerary to you. We had two tickets to the opening night of the Rhode Island Philharmonic, which featured Beethoven's 5th Symphony, but thought we'd first head over to Temple, the bar in the new Marriott Renaissance hotel in the Masonic Temple Building. The first cool thing you'll notice about Temple is the grafitti art scattered throughout, a reference to the massive amounts of grafitti that covered the inside of the building before it was rehabbed:

But Temple is a lot more than a cool space. They have a great bar menu, which includes basic bar foods and good seafood dishes (try the stuffies!) at reasonable prices. They also have a good list of wines by the glass, and have even figured out how to make a decent caipirinha. (If you want the best one in the state, you'll have to find your way to my house. I learned from a pro.)

After our drink, we headed over to Veteran's Memorial Auditorium for the concert. My chief complaint about this facility is the small seats: it's the Fenway Park of concert halls. But the space is very nice, and like Fenway you are very close to the action. The acoustics are good, and the Philharmonic itself compares well to the orchestras in much larger cities. Larry Rachleff, the music director and conductor, brings a great deal of energy, enthusiasm and good humor to the ensemble. (True story: at the end of intermission, he announced he'd stay after to take questions from the audience. This being the middle of the Red Sox-Indians game, someone yelled out "What's going on with the Red Sox?!" He smiled, pretended to be confused, and said, "But my socks are black!" Then he turned and started conducting Beethoven.)

Afterwards, we went back to Temple for another drink and to check the Sox score. Surprisingly, the place really fills up with a younger crowd after about 10:00. Still, they had enough bartenders to handle the crowd.

You can probably have a round of drinks and a decent array of bar food at Temple for around $40, maybe a bit more if you get cocktails and more expensive dishes. The tickets we got for the concert were $65 each in the front section. They can still be expensive in the upper level, but students can get really cheap tickets with their IDs in many cases. At any rate, for under $100 a person, you can have a high-society night of sophisticated drinking and music that can compare well to one you'd have in a much larger city.

The Dive Bar Tour of Providence

As I get older, it is a comfort to tell myself that I am getting more sophisticated. I enjoy a nice bottle of wine more than I would a six pack of beer. I like places that have cool music or interesting art or good lighting. But the reality is that I'm not a particularly sophisticated person, and I've always enjoyed the pleasures of cheap beer, weird crowds, and the ever-so-slight chance that there might be a bar fight. So, to fully celebrate the joys of the more blue collar watering holes in our capital city, I took my wife (who was the designated driver and reluctant participant) and a degenerate friend who we'll just refer to as Panda, and set out on a tour of our favorite sketchy bars.

(A quick note: there are more sketchy places than the five we went to. But there are fun dive bars and there are places where people get murdered.)

We started with a trip down memory lane. As all three of us are Providence College grads (thus the above-average tolerance), we thought to start the night with a trip to Louie's, a trashy place that was liberal in its over-21 policy. It also had a trough in the men's room in the place of urinals. But it must of suffered through one too many raids, because it is now closed. So we improvised and went to Elmhurst Pub on Smith Street as our alternate college dive.

We were a little disappointed at first glance. There were flat screen TV's on the wall. A decent assortment of beers, including several on tap, had replaced the old fridge full of domestic cans. The crowd seemed largely respectable, and they even had an ID scanner. (Sorry, college kids.) We weren't sure we could even qualify it as a dive bar.

But there were some redeeming features, like the very active Keno business taking place at the bar, and the retro, very ugly bar stools and wood panelling. But the most dive bar-ish feature of all was the on-tap Icehouse, a beer I haven't even thought about since I turned 21. So we ordered a pitcher (which cost $7.75) and settled in. We soon remembered the reason why no respectable adult drinks Icehouse. It tastes like feet and sour apples. But we quickly finished it up and headed on to bar number two.

And let me just say from the first that the Lithuanian Club (also on Smith Street, though the door is down the side street a bit) wins the best dive bar award of the night hands down. Leave aside the $7.00 pitcher of Miller Lite, the best drink deal of the night. Leave aside the probable crack addict in the back. Leave aside the $1 jello shots that were suddenly available, the ancient picture of Carl Yastremski tacked to the wall, or the big screen TV from 1982. No, you go to the Lithuanian club for two reasons: first, a crowd of crazy, fun people doing bad karaoke with gusto, and second, you can still smoke. That's right, it's a social club, and thus just about the only place you can still go in Providence to combine your two favorite vices. And, as a topper to all that, it has a glass cube bar:

So Panda got the pitcher, did his famous karaoke rendition of Dennis Leary's "Asshole", and I did my part by performing the Lumberjack Song.

Next up, we shot over to Ives Street to check out Captain Seaweed's. The only other time we'd been there, it was full of surly Portuguese guys and a friend of ours (who's a bit of a chicken) freaked out and ended up helping them put the chairs up so he wouldn't get stabbed. But it's really quite a friendly place, and indeed has been largely colonized by Brown kids, making it feel decidedly respectable. (Panda thought the mirrors over the bar completely took away the edge.) Still, the nautical decorations add a cool, funky touch, and there are plenty of respectable dive-ish entertainments, from pool and foosball to the Maxx Sapphire video game system on the corner of the bar (which, last I played it, has a bizarre strip poker game on it.) You could get the classic 16 ounce Narragansett cans for $2, which is another plus. So we left, but not before I showed my appreciation for their hospitality:



Next it was off to the Penalty Box on North Main Street. When Panda and I first went here, it was as big a dive as we'd ever been to, one of those Bud and Bud Light places. Now the inevitable gentrification of that part of town has somewhat taken the edge off, but made it much more fun, so it's worth including. While it's the only bar on the tour to lack a pool table (a major sin) it makes up for it by having Golden Tee, pinball and Ms. Pacman, as well as a regular slate of live music.

The night we went, a four piece rock band was playing, led by a guitarist who kept taking his clothes off while demanding someone buy him a shot. So despite the flatscreens and the nicer floors, it's still got some dive to it. Panda was a little distracted by some of the cute/scantily clad (or as the wife said 'slutty' girls at the bar, and bought Guiness, which cost $4 a pop. But they have Narragansett and other cheaper beers on tap, as well as a Yagermeister machine. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

Our last stop was supposed to be the City Line Pub, also on North Main, but it was closed by the time we got there, so we broke one of our tour rules and crossed about a half mile into Pawtucket. There, we went to Murray's Pub on Main Street, which deserves inclusion if only because it embraces its low-rent status to the point that it is housed in a trailer and has a porch festooned in Christmas lights.

Like the Lithuanian Club, Murray's features pool (in a little back room) and Karaoke, although this crowd tends to go more to hip-hop songs than monster ballads. At this point, my wife was getting a bit impatient, so we quickly downed $5 shots of Yager, chased them with $2.25 Budweisers, and staggered off into the night, content that tomorrow's hangovers would be reminders of why we crave sophistication as we age. Basically, because we can't take the alternative any more.

Ready, Set, Soapbox!

No matter how good the local 'scene' is, there are only so many live music shows, funky bars and street fairs someone can take before they start craving something different. If that's how you're feeling, then this Saturday offers a treat: the Red Bull Soapbox Race. You may have already seen their commercials, in which case you're either gung-ho, confused, or have already decided its stupid. (If you fall into the last camp, there's not likely to be much of interest to you in this article or on this blog in general.)

For everyone else, let me just assure you that this is no stupid stunt. Ok, well it is a stupid stunt, but a gloriously stupid stunt, with wacky little cars hurtling down College Hill competing on speed or the insanity of their vehicles. For those of you who remember the street luge held when the Gravity Games were held here (oh happy days), imagine that but with miniature parade floats.

The first race is at 1pm, but you can go as early as 11:00 to check out the pits, say hi to the teams, and probably get some free Red Bull. The last race is at 3:00, and then there's an awards ceremony.

There are a bunch of local teams involved: I'm rooting for the Rhode Island Reds out of historical appreciation. (I'll change my allegiance to Team Spikes if they'll hook me up with free hot dogs. I can be bought.

The starting line is at Fones Alley and Prospect Street. Most of the race then runs down Waterman, to the finish line at the bottom of the hill. I assure you, if you're anyhwere near Brown on Saturday afternoon, you won't be able to miss it. And you won't want to.


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Your Weekend Agenda

As always, we present your agenda for a weekend of fun and enlightenment. The RhodyRocks team (by which I mean my wife and I) are feeling a little light in the wallet lately, so our goal for the weekend was to get you through with as little damage as possible. So, everything on the agenda this week is cheap or free. Then, as a little bonus, we threw in a Sunday night budget-buster if you're feeling frisky. Enjoy.

Thursday: Tonight feels like a night for The Blackstone Tonight they have Corinne Wahlberg on the stage at 9:00, and I'm sure the televisions will be tuned to the Yankees getting whooped up on by the Cleveland Indians. The Blackstone is located on Main Street in Pawtucket (see the review on this blog for more details.) There may be a $5 cover: you've been warned.

Friday: Cafe Zog isn't exactly known as a live music place, which is a shame, because it hosts occassional shows that are intimate, a little weird, and a good chance to actually meet some local artists and musicians. This Friday, they're hosting a free show featuring a bunch of bands and performers, including Nick Anderson, Ben Pilgrim and Smiling Carcinogens. It's on Wickenden Street in Providence, and it starts at 8:00

Saturday: Spend your afternoon among the spokes and handlebars at AS220's Broke and Busted Bike Swap and Sale. This free event will feature cheap bikes, cool bikes, bike parts, a lot of bike people, and of course easy access to the wonderful tacos at Taqueria Pacifica, inside AS220's cool art space. And unlike most biker events, you won't have to deal with revving Harley engines and exhaust fumes. It's from 12-5 on Empire Street in Providence.

As sun sets, get your English on by heading to the 10th annual Guy Fawkes Bonfire Night at the Andrea Hotel in Misquamicut. In addition to the traditional reenactment of the execution of Guy Fawkes (who famously tried to blow up Parliament in the name of the 'Papist religion'), there will be entertainment from the Misquamicut Players, The Kentish Guards Fife and Drum and an assortment of other properly British attractions. It's free and starts at 7:00 at 89 Atlantic Avenue. You've got to love a reason to get to the shore one last time before winter.

Sunday: Go from English to Italian festivities up on Federal Hill in Providence, as Atwells Ave. celebrates Columbus Day in style. There will be a parade, great food, and the shebang will include Maryann Esposito of theCiao Italia cooking show on PBS. Additionally, soul band Tribeca will be playing from 2 to 6. The parade starts at noon, and of course everything is free except the massive amounts of food you're sure to find irresistable.

Finish up the weekend with a laugh. Score tickets to see the very funny Brian Regan at the PPAC. If you've taken advantage of all the free and cheap events this weekend, you should be able to swing the $32.50 ticket charge. The show starts at 7:30.

Bar Tabs: Ivy Tavern

Every guy needs to have three skills in his back pocket: first, a quality story he can tell in awkward social situations. Second, he needs a recipe (preferably on the grill) that he can make better than anyone else he knows. And finally, he needs a bar he can go to with a group of people where he knows everyone will have a good time. My story is about the time I got fired, my dish is flame-grilled bruschetta, and my bar is the Ivy Tavern.

Why the Ivy? First and foremost its the bartenders. Its not that I know them really well. The reason I like them is that you don’t need to in order to have a good bar conversation; about the Red Sox, what’s going on in the neighborhood, whatever. At its best, the Ivy feels like a group of friends hanging out, and the bartenders are the gracious hosts.


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Second, the food is pitch-perfect bar fare. The Ivy is the only place other than San Francisco that I’ve ever had finger-sucking good garlic fries. They also do an exemplary job with hamburgers, chicken sandwiches, and other pub sandwiches. If none of that suits you, they usually have some decent pizzas or other specials, and my wife can even find a good salad or the like if she’s trying to be healthy.

Finally, there is just something about the place itself. They’ve got a bunch of good beers on tap (reasonably priced, too), some cool old boxing and wrestling posters on the wall, and a notice board with surprisingly funny messages spelled out in scrabble letters. The crowd is a mix of Brown kids, twentysomethings, and neighborhood folks in for a beer and dinner.
Check it out the next time there’s a big game on or you want to spice up a slow Saturday night. Then you just need a good story and a good grill recipe to complete your manly troika.

Your Weekend Agenda

With the weather suddenly feeling summerish again, we urge you to embrace this weekend as one of the last real chances to get outside and enjoy the natural blessings of Rhode Island. This week's update will help.

Thursday: Since the weather might not be all you would like for an outdoor event on Thursday, head down to Westminster Street for some time in downtown Providence. While you're there, be sure to check out the free show by Afrosonic at the Black Rep. It's a free show that starts at 9:00, so you can check out other places and events while you're there.

Friday: Now head over to the West Side of Providence. Think about dinner at Julian's, then go to Firehouse 13 for a fashion show. Channel Zero will be the live band for both shows, which start at 9 and 11. It's $10 in advance and $15 at the door.

Saturday: First, head downtown and soak up the sights of the The Providence Street Painting Festival. More than 300 artists will gather at the skating rink to share their talents and create some incredible, if temporary, works fo art. So head downtown for this free event.

Stay downtown for the evening and attend one of the last Waterfires of the year. Fires will be lit at 6:30.

Sunday: If you're sick of the outdoors, head to Brown's Bell Gallery for an intense, unusual architectural environment by Yumi Kori.

If it's too nice for art, head to the Roger Williams Park Zoo for some fun with animals. New additions to the zoo include African wild dogs, a giant anteater, and a second baby giraffe, which was born this summer.

Go Right Now: Restaurant Oak

It's easy to find a nice formal place to have dinner in most places, and you can usually find good places to eat when you just want some simple food or pub fare. But in my experience, the real challenge is locating the restaurants that serve great food with a somewhat less pretentious atmosphere and price tag. In Providence, we're blessed to have a number of such places, and one of the newest and best is Restaurant Oak. This bistro-style eatery has been open over a year now, but judging by the crowds, you'd think it was still brand new. But it's worth putting in the effort, because Oak offers one of the best dining experiences in the state.

The first thing you'll notice about Oak is how pleasant it is just to be in the space. From the tables outside on the nice days, to the comfortable bar area, to the warm, colorful dining room, everything about the place invites you to forget the stresses of your life and just enjoy your meal and your company. The acoustics, are also great, which is somewhat surprising for a smaller place. Rarely does a neighboring conversation seem to intrude on you. The staff add to this relaxed vibe by being attentive, playful, but never overly intrusive, striking just the right tone. Oak even complements its decor by occassionally exhibiting work by local artists, and amazingly always pick pieces that add to the ambiance. (They are currently exhibiting some nice landscapes by Amy Ryan.


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The food is always outstanding. I've had romantic dinners and business meetings at Oak, and from the simple sandwiches and burgers to nicer dishes like their bacon-wrapped scallops or chicken-apple sausage appetizers and seared duck breast or five-cheese ravioli entrees, they shine with a wide variety of dishes. An accessible wine list and good assortment of specialty coctails round out the experience, as do a selection of decadent desserts.

In fact, if you're in the mood for a nice, long meal that covers all the bases, you can't go wrong with their Wednesday fixed price menu. A couple can share a bottle of wine and each get an appetizer, entree and dessert for only $50 (I believe). That's less than you'd probably spend for two entrees and an appetizer to split on a Friday night. And you'll avoid some of the weekend crowd that will keep you waiting otherwise. Of course, after you try Restaurant Oak once, you'll probably be back pretty soon.

The Essentials

Cost for two: If you get two appetizers, two entrees, and a bottle of wine, you'll probably be set back $80 to $100 with the tip.
Bar savers: This is a wine place, and I recommend the Conquista Malbec off their list: a glass is $6, and it goes great with many of their best meat and pasta dishes.
Eat me: Both the appetizer and entree takes on sea scallops are excellent (to the point that they sometimes run out by late in the evening).
Next Stop: Down the street back towards Providence a bit is the Ivy Tavern, a good place for a late evening beer or to catch a game on TV.

The Lost and Found Bin: Frog and Toad

by Kim Reed

Long before the Providence Place Maul overshadowed Downcity with its looming Restoration Hardware and Pottery Barn adorned windows, Providence was the queen of hole-in-the-wall shops and boutiques. Much like the storefronts that have cropped up along Westminster that feature an array of magnetic poetry coffee mugs and spray painted tree branch votive holders, they sold unusual wares to tickle your fancy. Unlike this new breed, however, they were relatively inexpensive with more personality for your meager dollar. Instead of heading out to one of a thousand faceless retail establishments in the Providence area that boast slick, laminated shopping bags with their names emblazoned on the front, be a true Rhody shopper and patronize some the best itty bitty shops our miniature retail hub has to offer.

Frog & Toad
You don’t have to kiss a lot of toads to find a handsome price at this Hope Street curiosity shop. This whimsical store bears a collection of curious house wares, all joined together in one place. Almost like that shoebox you had under your bed as a kid, browsing through this shop is like looking at someone’s collection of sentimental doodads – making it the perfect place to find that odd yet charming gift for someone who loves curious things.


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For the wisenheimer coffee drinker, there is a collection of ceramic owl coffee mugs. For the lonely cat lover, there are pocket sized china kittens so they will never be without their feline friends. For those sushi loving expectant parents, why not slip some training chopsticks into their baby shower basket. From kimono clothe placemats to local artisan stitched handbags, Frog and Toad has something to please your sentimental side. Most prices range from $19.00 and up – which is a steal for handmade items. Bargains abound for vintage luggage tags, stickers and stationary – under $10.00 for the most part.

Make sure to check out the goldfish swimming in the flowerpot on your left when you walk in the door – it will inspire you to DIY at home – that is if you don’t have a pet. There’s also the best collection of cheapo jewelry ranging from $3.00 and up - at the front counter. The best part - the lovely people that work the counter will gift box and wrap even a $3.00 bracelet. Voile! You won’t have to share dinner with Fido to get your honey some sparkly wrist candy.

No guarantees you’ll turn into anything handsome or royal, but giving gifts from Frog and Toad will surely earn you some kisses, if not a little more pocket cash and a reputation as a thoughtful and creative gift giver.

Go Right Now: Caserta's Pizza

Perhaps this admission will make you trust this blog a little less, but I'm not what you'd call a gourmet. In other words, I don't necessarily appreciate the subtle differences between the porterhouse at two good steak places, or the sashimi at my two favorite sushi joints. Generally speaking, I'm looking for ambiance, quality, and value.

That said, there is no one in the great state of Rhode Island who could possibly confuse or compare Caserta's Pizza with that of any other pizzeria around. It's just in a league of its own. And I don't necessarily mean better, either, though it certainly has a special place in my heart. If you read the reviews on the page I linked to, you'll see a fair number of people who think it is way overrated, or possibly even GROSS.

So here's what you need to know...this is a pizza bomb, not an ordinary pie. Anyone on the Atkins diet would go into carb shock just walking to close to it. The pizza comes out in thick, heavy squares with sauce and cheese pouring over the top and sinking into the doughy crust at the same time. A large is so big that a group of six healthy eaters I was once with couldn't get through half of it; I took the leftovers and had four additional meals from it. (That experience also took three years off of my life, but it was worth it.)


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So get yourself up to Federal Hill and go. One block off the main drag (Atwells), Caserta's is basically a beer hall for pizza: one big room with a bunch of spare tables that give you no illusion it's about anything other than the food. So get a pizza with extra cheese, get a few good friends and a cardiologist to come along, and enjoy the ultimate comfort food.

The Details:
Drinks: Basic beer and wine options won't put you back much more than $5. Get a Peroni for the full on Italian experience
Food: Pizza's never expensive, and for under $20 you can easily order enough for 4 people, and you'll probably have leftovers.
Crowd: If you can't feel comfortable here, the stick up your ass is probably tickling your throat right now.
Pointer: After you're done, head around the corner to Dolce Vita for a coffee or cocktail to wrap up your night.

Crankin' Out Innovation

Providence is about more than nightlife. It is rumored that many people work as many as 8 hours a day here to support their social habits. That's why it's good to have institutions like the Business Innovation Factory. If you're interested in the way the business world is evolving, or the future of the local idea-based economy, it's worth checking out.

And because we're in the business of promoting Rhode Island happenings, I should add that they're holding a pretty kick-ass conference at Trinity Rep on October 10th and 11th. They even got Mark Cuban to make an appearance.