Go Right Now: Julian's

You always remember fondly your first date with the woman who eventually becomes your wife. Of course, it puts a bit of a cramp in it if she thinks the date was in a different restaurant than the one you remember. However, I've always had a better memory than her, so I'm pretty confident that our first date was, in fact, at Julian's, one of the more unconventional dining spots in Providence.

Located on Broadway at the border of Federal Hill and the funky West End, Julian's offers a great experience no matter when you feel like going. (Never has the title of this column been more appropriate.) Say, for example, you feel like breakfast. I guarantee you that Julian's brunch menu will offer something amazingly good that you never saw on a breakfast plate before. Last time, I had a blue cheese and broccoli hash that was a borderline sexual experience, and my wife looked somewhat hot and bothered as she chowed down on her vegan gingerbread pancakes. The mix of asian-inspired dishes, vegetarian delights (yes, I said it) and traditional favorites with a twist (or just flawless execution) is astounding.

Dinner is, arguably, even better (though the lines are usually longer for brunch, at least on Sunday). I'm a big fan of starting off with the grilled naan bread, but there are a ton of great starters to choose from. In fact, between the 'munch' items on the menu and the larger appetizers, it is a great time to go with a group of friends for some drinks and a bunch of dishes to share. But if you do follow in my footsteps and go on a date, you'll probably want a main course, and you can't go wrong with (just to name a few) the pumpkin gnocchi or the poached bass. To be honest, though, I usually check out their specials, and find something well worth trying.

If the food sounds offbeat and lively, the ambiance matches. The walls and ceiling are covered with odd artifacts, and you'll see something new that will serve as a conversation piece every time you go. The open kitchen offers its own form of entertainment. Yet it is still a very relaxing place, where you can truly feel at ease. I've watched several times some older and conservatively dressed folks sitting right next to a well-pierced group of hipsters, and neither looking the least bit uncomfortable. Maybe the polite, funny staff helps with that.

Julian's is hardly a Providence secret, but if you haven't been yet, you owe it to yourself to find out why they have so serial patrons, including me.

The Essentials:


Address: 318 Broadway, Providence
Cost for Two: Brunch will probably set you back $20 to $30 without any booze, and dinner is usually $50 to $60 with a couple of drinks, but it can go as high as $90 or so if you're getting the more expensive entrees.
Bar Savers: Check the board for beer specials. They often have unusual stuff for $2 or $3 per draft.
Eat Me: Everything they do with naan is worth trying
Next Stop: Mo Joe's Bar, at 166 Broadway, is a decent place to keep the party going, and get in a game of pool

Three Ways to Get Your Sushi Fix

Let me preface this article by noting how little I know about sushi. I was definitely a latecomer to the raw fish trend, having tried it for the first time less than three years ago. But since then, I've fairly regularly found myself trekking out for it with my wife, or bringing some back home to pair up with wine and a movie. While there are a number of respected sushi joints in Providence, I've found three that each meet a different need in my life, and these are the ones I'd recommend if you find yourself in a similar state.

A caveat: I usually eat maki (rolls), with a bit of the less adventurous nigiri or sashimi (a slice of fish, which in the case of nigiri comes on a ball of rice). So sushi purists who want to know the best place for the more exotic stuff should probably ignore everything I say.

The Atmospheric Choice: Sakura

There will always be a special place in my heart for Sakura because it counts as a romantic dinner out to my wife, yet costs a lot less than most other restaurants that get that designation, in large part because it is BYOB. You also can't escape the fact you're in a sushi restaurant, especially if you sit in the back room where you take your shoes off and sit at low tables. (If you've been sweating in your sneakers all day, there are regular tables in the front room.) The waitstaff is also dressed in traditional garb, adding to the feel that you've left Providence behind (at least, if you're not seated next to a bunch of college students passing a bunch of booze around, Sakura's only downfall.)

The assortment of sushi is pretty standard, and there are some combo plates for big groups. They also have tempura and a bunch of 'regular' food like beef, chicken and fried shrimp, but that seems mostly for sushi sissies. So, if you'd like to lose yourself for a few hours, grab a good bottle of wine and head to 231 Wickenden Street.

The Relaxed Choice: Ran Zan


View Larger MapI learned just now, from its web site, that Ran Zan is the name of a rural village in Japan. The name fits nicely with the simple atmosphere of this neighborhood restaurant at the junction of Hope Street and Blackstone Boulevard.

Ran Zan, unlike Sakura, does offer alcohol, and has a nice selection of both sake and Japanese beers to go with their sushi. (I'm a big fan of Kirin Ichiban and Sapporo.) The food itself is very reasonably priced, and offers some twists on the traditional offerings. One of my favorites is a Philly Roll, which combines smoked salmon with cucumber and cream cheese to create a truly unique taste. Of course, they have all the classics, too. I am also quite partial to their fried shrimp and vegetable tempura appetizer, which is a great way to start a meal.

It is a relaxed place to have lunch or dinner, but also a good place to order takeout.

The Hearty Choice: Sushi Express

Like many people, I imagine, I was introduced to sushi as a sit-down meal, and only later began to think of it as a food to take home with me. At some point along the way, someone told me that in Japan, there are a lot of hole-in-the-wall places where you can get sushi quickly for lunch or a snack, without a lot of fuss or hassle. Sushi Express, as the name indicates, operates on that spirit. This small, narrow restaurant has a few stools if you'd like to eat in, but is primarily a takeout place. (If you've ever been into the original Spike's, just down a bit on Thayer Street from Sushi Express, you have a sense for how the space feels, though Sushi Express is, amazingly, even smaller.

One thing that impressed me right away was that the sushi rolls seem larger than the other restaurants in town. Normally, I'd be hungry after two orders of rolls (with is usually 12 of them) but that much completely fills me up at Sushi Express. And, depending on what you order, the cost will be a little over or under $10. Their selection is interesting, as in addition to the standard fare they have a few unique rolls with names taken from spots here in the Ocean State. I first went there while shopping on Thayer Street (they're at 281 Thayer), and it now coexists along with Spike's and East Side Pockets as a great place for a quick, tasty bite.

Bar Tabs: Remington House Inn

What are the good parts of Rhode Island? Well, Providence is the center of what culture and class the state has. Pawtucket is the Billy Carter to Providence's Jimmy. Newport is its tourist hub. Bristol is Newport for the natives. Warren is the ever-so-slightly edgier version of Bristol, because there are two square blocks that feel blue collar. Jamestown and Block Island are where you go to dream of a different lifestyle. Westerly is that town you go to once a year and say 'why don't I come here more often?'

The point is, all these towns have an identity that draws at least some of us to leave our own and visit them. I could have gone on: Narragansett, Gloucester, Little Compton...all have their strong points. But then there are the towns that people are leaving to go to all these Rhody gems. And while there are actually quite a few (Johnston and North Providence, I'm talking to you), the Warwick/Cranston complex is the beating suburban heart of our state. So the question becomes, what do these towns have to offer the rest of us? What, besides Garden City and Twin Oaks, would draw us in?

In an attempt to find out, I asked my wife, who worked in Warwick for a while, if there were any places that she would recommend people check out. After a pause, she said simply 'The Remy'. A little later, we were on our way to the Remington House Inn, a bar and restaurant that is worth braving I-95 for.


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I posted this under Bar Tabs because we went for drinks and a few appetizers. But by the time we left at 6:30 on a Saturday, the restaurant was packed. It seems the Remy is not exactly a hidden gem. However, I would definitely recommend the bar experience. The drinks are very reasonably priced, and they have a nice selection of beers on tap. What's more, they have a good selection of happy hour appetizers that, at least the day we were there, were available until 6:00. (I had the impression they might have extended this an hour.) We got the bruschetta and the potato skins, which were both a step above the typical bar fare and more than filling enough.

But the real reasons to go are the location (in a cool old building by the water) and the crowd. The people there tend to be a little older than your average Providence crowd, and for whatever reason, this made the people-watching and eavesdropping spectacular. I was priviledged to hear two complete strangers debating the details of the Catholic sex abuse scandals of a few years ago, with one inebriated orator stating emphatically that, "the nuns are just as bad as the priests, and everyone in my school knew it." I only wish he had been together enough to explain where that came from. Another group of 40-somethings looked like teenagers sneaking a drink out of their parents' liquor cabinet, so thrilled were they to be ditching the kids and throwing down a few with some friends. After too many nights of hipper-than-thou bar patrons in the city, it was refreshing to see people letting loose and enjoying themselves, and observing the wild results.

I won't be making the Remington House a regular stop (I've become too much a Rhode Islander to take 95 that often), but I'll always keep it in mind when I need some tasty bar bites and a break from the regular scene.

Pawtucket Rising

I think the principle choice in my life is whether I turn left or right at the end of my street. Left, and I am swiftly on Hope Street, headed towards the familiar bars, restaurants, and other merry-making options that exist within the city that I consider my first adult home. Right, and I delve into the depths of Pawtucket, which seemed like a joke even after I bought a house just over the border. I mean, why would anyone go to Pawtucket when Providence is right there?

So why do I find myself more and more frequently turning right? Why do I now tell my colleagues at work in Boston that I live in Pawtucket? Why have I been shunning some of my more familiar Providence haunts? Because, at long last, the resurgence of Pawtucket is not just a dream or a theory, but a true, if fragile, thing.

I plan on writing more about what's going on in Pawtucket over the next few months, but I wanted to start by highlighting a few of the places you should be checking out right now.

The first thing you should do if you're a Pawtucket neophyte is to cruise through the downtown. The whole thing is actually on the National Register of Historical Places, mostly because of the fantastic 1800's commercial and industrial architecture. Despite a great number of architectural calamities, you'll get some sense of how wealthy and powerful the city was not too long ago.

While you're there, make sure to check out the Grant, and particularly Cafe Lila, which is making a strong push for being the best independent coffee house in the state. (In a pinch, I'd still give the crown to White Electric.) It is a hard place to describe, so go down to Main Street and check it out for yourself. And, if you want a treat, get a root beer float...you will be a very happy camper. Then check out the odd assortment of businesses and shops that make up the rest of the building.

Perhaps my favorite thing about Pawtucket right now cannot be localized in a single place: rather, it is the collection of artists that are giving the city its pulse which are so intriguing. To find out what's happening in the city's art scene, a good place to start is the Pawtucket Arts Collaborative. With the holidays upon us, you might consider finding some of the many art shows to fill your gift giving needs in a truly original, and beautiful, way.

But you need to sort of localize yourself to eat, and I'm sad to say I haven't eaten a meal in downtown Pawtucket yet (but I'm gunning for the China Inn this week.) Anyway, my favorite raft of Pawtucket restaurants is right on the border of Providence, in the plaza where LJ's Barbeque (which I've already written about) resides. If you're in the mood for something a bit lighter, that same plaza houses the Garden Grille, which is the only vegetarian restaurant that I, as a carnivore in good standing, have ever found to be a pleasant dining experience. It is one of the more unique restaurants in town, and I highly recommend it.

Finally, there are a number of quality bars throughout Pawtucket, many of which have been documented on this site (subliminal message time: gototheBlackstone!). But the most recent addition to my laundry list of bars is certainly the News Cafe, which has friendly people, cheap drinks, and an overall good vibe. When you're tired of the increasing expensification of Providence, it's sweet relief.

Anyway, this is just a primer. The best way to explore Pawtucket is to get in your car, hop on I-95, and get off any exit between 26 and 30. You'll find something worth your time. I guarantee it.

Go Right Now: LJ's BBQ

In a state where dining out is somehow both a treat and a way of life, you wouldn't expect a restaurant who's slogan is, "Eat it and Beat it" to be successful. But LJ's BBQ, right over the Providence border in Pawtucket, is out to prove that if the food is good enough, you can say anything you want to your customers. And while a northern boy like myself may not be a fully-qualified judge of barbeque goodness, I've chowed down on enough of it over the years to say that the folks at LJ's are entitled to tell me to get my butt out of their booth when I'm done.

And, as you might guess, the LJ's crew is not as surly as their slogan might represent. (In fact, they're so friendly you might, just might, suspect that the slogan is just something that's meant to evoke a certain good-natured southern surliness.) Every time I've been, the service has been attentive but not over-the top, and the staff has a really good understanding of the menu and how to guide you to a choice you'll enjoy. And the menu, full of succulent, falling-off-the-bone barbeque favorites, gives plenty of options, at least assuming you like beef, pork or chicken.

Generally, I'm a fan of anything they offer that includes the word 'brisket'. But last time, I went out of my comfort zone and had a Pulled Pork Cuban, which was tangy, smokey and positively gut-busting. It probably didn't help that my wife insisted we get the onion rings to go with our meals (hers was much less stomach-stuffing than mine), which were big and tasty but ensured I would have no space for dessert. A nice beer list, usually with one on special, serves as the perfect accompaniment to wash down all that greasy goodness, but if you're so inclined, they manage to carry some nice wines. I love Malbec with anything, but think it goes really well with barbeque.

There are relatively few good southern food joints in the area, what with the dominance of bistro-style places serving Asian-inspired French dishes or formal Italian. (Not that I'm complaining, exactly...) So when a place like LJ's BBQ comes along, you have to embrace it, and accept that you'll probably need to run a few miles the next day as your mild penance.

The Essentials

ADDRESS: 727 East Avenue in Pawtucket, right past the end of Blackstone Boulevard
COST FOR TWO: Two cheap beers, an appetizer and two sandwiches will probably set you back $40 or so with the tip.
BAR SAVERS: Look for beer specials (the Sam Smith Nut Brown was a treat). Or, save on your whole meal by going Monday or Tuesday and getting the fixed price menu (drink, soup or salad, entree with side, and dessert) for $15.
EAT ME: Any brisket or pulled pork dish won't disappoint.
NEXT STOP: Go around the corner to Three Sisters at 1074 Hope Street for coffee or ice cream, if you have any room left.

Go Right Now: Restaurant Oak

It's easy to find a nice formal place to have dinner in most places, and you can usually find good places to eat when you just want some simple food or pub fare. But in my experience, the real challenge is locating the restaurants that serve great food with a somewhat less pretentious atmosphere and price tag. In Providence, we're blessed to have a number of such places, and one of the newest and best is Restaurant Oak. This bistro-style eatery has been open over a year now, but judging by the crowds, you'd think it was still brand new. But it's worth putting in the effort, because Oak offers one of the best dining experiences in the state.

The first thing you'll notice about Oak is how pleasant it is just to be in the space. From the tables outside on the nice days, to the comfortable bar area, to the warm, colorful dining room, everything about the place invites you to forget the stresses of your life and just enjoy your meal and your company. The acoustics, are also great, which is somewhat surprising for a smaller place. Rarely does a neighboring conversation seem to intrude on you. The staff add to this relaxed vibe by being attentive, playful, but never overly intrusive, striking just the right tone. Oak even complements its decor by occassionally exhibiting work by local artists, and amazingly always pick pieces that add to the ambiance. (They are currently exhibiting some nice landscapes by Amy Ryan.


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The food is always outstanding. I've had romantic dinners and business meetings at Oak, and from the simple sandwiches and burgers to nicer dishes like their bacon-wrapped scallops or chicken-apple sausage appetizers and seared duck breast or five-cheese ravioli entrees, they shine with a wide variety of dishes. An accessible wine list and good assortment of specialty coctails round out the experience, as do a selection of decadent desserts.

In fact, if you're in the mood for a nice, long meal that covers all the bases, you can't go wrong with their Wednesday fixed price menu. A couple can share a bottle of wine and each get an appetizer, entree and dessert for only $50 (I believe). That's less than you'd probably spend for two entrees and an appetizer to split on a Friday night. And you'll avoid some of the weekend crowd that will keep you waiting otherwise. Of course, after you try Restaurant Oak once, you'll probably be back pretty soon.

The Essentials

Cost for two: If you get two appetizers, two entrees, and a bottle of wine, you'll probably be set back $80 to $100 with the tip.
Bar savers: This is a wine place, and I recommend the Conquista Malbec off their list: a glass is $6, and it goes great with many of their best meat and pasta dishes.
Eat me: Both the appetizer and entree takes on sea scallops are excellent (to the point that they sometimes run out by late in the evening).
Next Stop: Down the street back towards Providence a bit is the Ivy Tavern, a good place for a late evening beer or to catch a game on TV.

That Morning Meal

It is easy to forget about breakfast. I spent most of college life and my early adult weekends sleeping well past the hour when any decent person considers eating cereal, eggs and pancakes. But as I age and wisen, I realize that there are very few pleasures (at least culinary pleasures) that compare to sitting down in the morning with a group of friends and chowing down on bacon, omelets, and hash browns, with coffee taking the place of alcohol as the social lubricant.

My absolute favorite breakfast place is the Modern Diner. If you summon up a mental picture of what a diner is, you will see, more or less, the Modern. (That's probably why it was the first diner put on the National Register for Historic Places.) But the nostalgia trip wouldn't be any good if the food wasn't first rate, and it certainly is that. While you wait for a table (and on the weekend, you will wait), you can check out the several dozen specials they have listed. All types of berry-stuffed pancakes, exotic omelets and creative waffles are there for the choosing. Or, you can just get a classic like scrambled eggs with a side of rye toast and a cup of joe and enjoyably waste away the first few hours of your morning.


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The other breakfast spot I keep coming back to is more of a hole-in-the-wall than a diner, strictly speaking. Ruffuls, in the Wayland Square neighborhood on the East Side, is a local institution that many people probably walk by without even noticing. However, once you walk in the first time and taste their hash browns, you'll be loyal for life. Amazingly, you can still have a meal for two at Ruffuls that will leave you completely stuffed and pay about $15, with tip. It would be almost impossible to splurge.


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I personally would be hard-pressed to pick my favorite. I think the Modern Diner might be a bit better for sweet stuff like pancakes, and Ruffuls has the market on omelets and hash browns. But either way, if you're looking to fight off a hangover or bond with family after church, either one of these spots will give you exactly what you want in before-noon dining.

Go to Roba Dolce. Shun Cold Stone. Be a Good Person.

Do I think that people who like the Cold Stone Creamery are evil? No, of course not. That would be going too far. Well, it doesn't prove they aren't evil. Maybe...sometimes yes, I do think that.

I've been to the Cold Stone Creamery on Thayer Street once. I waited in line for almost ten minutes as a bunch of teenagers led by a psychotically cheerful fat woman belted out songs every time they got a tip. I think, at one point, the gates of Hell opened up behind the counter and melted some of the toppings, which caused further delays, during which there was more singing.

Contrast that with Roba Dolce across the street. Now, I'd never say the place is perfect: sometimes I think it feels a little too slick and polished, like it needs to age a decade before it feels like it belongs. Still, the atmosphere says 'good' and 'fun' without resorting to painful gimmicks or caddle-prodding the staff when they don't smile wide enough. And what's more, they serve light, fluffy gelato instead of the almost un-finishable mound of candy-stuffed ice cream you get at Cold Stone.


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The other nice thing about Roba Dolce (if you've been to their web site, it's technically Roba!Dolce, but that exclamation point is undercutting the 'not cheesy' part of my argument a little bit, so I'm typing it the uncrazy way) is that it is locally owned. They've got their headquarters in Providence, another store in Newport, and more on the way up in Boston.

So here's what you do, quick, before the summer is out. Go to Roba Dolce, choose from the 20 or so flavors (I recommend pistachio gelato), maybe get a coffee, and either sit out on the deck or walk up and down Thayer Street. While you won't feel like you're in Italy (the cliche you hear about every gelato place), you might convince yourself that the whole Renaissance City label is more than just a bit of Providence boosterism.

Go Right Now: Caserta's Pizza

Perhaps this admission will make you trust this blog a little less, but I'm not what you'd call a gourmet. In other words, I don't necessarily appreciate the subtle differences between the porterhouse at two good steak places, or the sashimi at my two favorite sushi joints. Generally speaking, I'm looking for ambiance, quality, and value.

That said, there is no one in the great state of Rhode Island who could possibly confuse or compare Caserta's Pizza with that of any other pizzeria around. It's just in a league of its own. And I don't necessarily mean better, either, though it certainly has a special place in my heart. If you read the reviews on the page I linked to, you'll see a fair number of people who think it is way overrated, or possibly even GROSS.

So here's what you need to know...this is a pizza bomb, not an ordinary pie. Anyone on the Atkins diet would go into carb shock just walking to close to it. The pizza comes out in thick, heavy squares with sauce and cheese pouring over the top and sinking into the doughy crust at the same time. A large is so big that a group of six healthy eaters I was once with couldn't get through half of it; I took the leftovers and had four additional meals from it. (That experience also took three years off of my life, but it was worth it.)


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So get yourself up to Federal Hill and go. One block off the main drag (Atwells), Caserta's is basically a beer hall for pizza: one big room with a bunch of spare tables that give you no illusion it's about anything other than the food. So get a pizza with extra cheese, get a few good friends and a cardiologist to come along, and enjoy the ultimate comfort food.

The Details:
Drinks: Basic beer and wine options won't put you back much more than $5. Get a Peroni for the full on Italian experience
Food: Pizza's never expensive, and for under $20 you can easily order enough for 4 people, and you'll probably have leftovers.
Crowd: If you can't feel comfortable here, the stick up your ass is probably tickling your throat right now.
Pointer: After you're done, head around the corner to Dolce Vita for a coffee or cocktail to wrap up your night.

Go Right Now: The Red Fez

Everyone has a place they like to go when they feel a little down and they want to redeem the day. For me and my wife, that place is the Red Fez. It's a perfect combination of funky restaurant and chill bar, and it's within walking distance of the best of downtown Providence. If you find yourself at Waterfire and feel the sudden urge to be a bit hipper, get yourself to the Fez, pronto.

When you walk in, the first thing you'll notice is the dim lighting and the odd artwork on the wall. (Say hi to Strong-Ass Sal for me.) Grab a seat downstairs for a more traditional restaurant experience, or ask to go up for the more raucus pub atmosphere. Either way, you'll have a lot of great menu options. The Red Fez has a wide range of appetizers, from a simple hummus plate to the more sophisticated. They also have a late night snacking menu with some great smaller dishes. But your best bet is to go straight to entrees, especially if you like the cheesy goodness of arguably the best mac and cheese you'll ever have. My wife and I fight over who gets to order it. The loser gets the sausage plate, a sandwich, or another of the eclectic America-meets-Turkey-and-goes-to-France type of offerings, and never leaves unhappy.

Aside from the dining, the experience is great. You can spend the whole night checking out the interesting people and the wild decorations. You'll enjoy a music selection that keeps your energy up yet doesn't intrude. Hell, you might feel so good you buy beers for the kitchen. And they encourage that.

The essentials:

The Red Fez
49 Peck St
Providence, RI 02903
(401) 272-1212

Entrees: $10 to $20
Bar Savers: Cheap Gansetts and Schlitz are dirt cheap. They always have a bottle of cheap champagne avaiable
Eat Me: Get the mac and cheese and die happy.

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